Roger Joseph Fernand Frison-Roche, born February 10, 1906 in Paris 8th comes from a Savoyard family living in Paris. He studied at the Chaptal high school in Paris, then left school and worked as a courier in the Thomas Cook travel agency at the age of 14. During the war, he made several trips to Beaufort which awakened his love of the mountains. In 1924, he was the secretary of the first Winter Olympics in Chamonix. He writes in the newspaper Le Savoyard de Paris. Between 1926 and 1927, he did his military service in Grenoble with the 93rd mountain artillery regiment.
In 1923, at the age of 17, he moved to Chamonix and became secretary of the tourist office and the Olympic Committee, he made several climbs such as the Aiguille du Grépon or the Aiguille du Moine. In 1928, he made the winter premiere of the Aiguille de Bionnassay with Armand Charlet. In 1928, Frison-Roche met Marguerite Landot with whom he had three children. Between 1927 and 1930, he was director of the Syndicat d'initiatives de Chamonix. In 1930, he was admitted to the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix.
In 1935, he made his first expedition to Algeria in the south in the Sahara with Captain Raymond Coche, where he was a guide for the French Alpine expedition to Hoggar. The expedition makes the first ascent of Garet El Djenoun (the Mountain of Geniuses). He published his first book in 1936: The Call of the Hoggar. In 1937, he crossed the Grand Erg Occidental on camel with Albert Plossu. Between 1938 and 1941…